My Quest for the Best Beach / Italy pt. 1
The Puglia Chapters - Lecce Province
Several years ago, I found myself on a quest for the. best. beach. This may sound trite or maybe it sounds respectable. For me, it’s about finding the greatest hits of coastal nature, and also the best experience. It isn’t just about optics. Optics are an essential component, but other factors weigh in, like the ecosystem and the people. I find that many travel recommendations often share the pretty frills, but omit certain parts that influence the entire experience, be they sensory or logistical.
This pursuit of mine organically emerged as a symptom of living on the California coast (beautiful, but with serious drawbacks) and being wholly transformed from my experiences abroad. Something happens in the soul in the presence of natural beauty (& history), especially seaside locales: Youth! I have been chasing these ultimate fountains of youth since: Coastlines with impeccably clean crystal-clear swimmable water, a scape that is a host to impeccable geological features and, importantly, whose shores also bring an authentic culture woven into the experience beyond consumerism and tourism - these are the get!
Metrics in my search also include a long warm weather season, little to no wind, soft sand, and rocky terrain nearby. Rock plankton keeps waters clean, and I have noticed a correlation with clean translucent turquoise seas to natural stone coastlines. Additional factors in my search for the best are: not too touristy or commercial, not too dangerous or arduous accessibility, as well as, having comfortable amenities: quality sun beds and umbrellas with tasty food and bev nearby (ideally with service).
There are exceptions, of course - those untapped destinations that offer an extraordinary beach with a tranquil atmosphere that are absolutely worth a hefty trek to get there...and simply a towel. I do expect somewhat of a journey to get to the best (of anything), sort of as a commitment to the process. Gotta work a little bit for it (says my Gen-x brain). In my life, nothing worth experiencing was easy to get to, but I also believe that some off-the-beaten path destinations are more manageable than others. Lastly, I long for beachgoers that respect the beach and other beachgoers. I want an intimate vibe (and headcount), and not too much of a scene. Hey, if I am going to dream (and give this mission of mine proper scrutiny), I am going to go big.
The ultimate symbol of pristine coastal excellence is the Blue Flag. The Blue Flag Award is a renowned global recognition by the FEE (Foundation for Environmental Education) for beaches, marinas and sustainable tourism boats. The Blue Flag draws inspiration from the ancient Greek Goddess, Gaia, emblematic of Earth and a commitment to environmental sustainability, biodiversity and water quality (Castner). Bookmark the Gaia part for now.
Of the 5000 Blue Flag sites in the world, the US has 1 (Del Rey Beach, Florida). Europe has the most, nearly 3000, and the countries with most, not surprisingly, are Italy, Greece, Spain and France. So, let’s begin.
Mainland Italy:
Puglia (the heel of Italy’s boot) ranks highly among the best beaches I have experienced in Italy, or anywhere. The Adriatic side (east) and Ionian side (west) are both special, and Puglia is a perfect destination for summertime road tripping for an epic cultural beach crawl. We (my partner and I) travelled all over Puglia over a recent summer.
I will be sharing my beach experiences through 5 (of the 6) provinces of Puglia in this Beach Quest series. Today, I am going to focus on the Adriatic (eastern) shores of Salento in the Lecce Province for this post, where some of my Puglian bests are. Salento comprises the most southern part of the heel & includes Lecce, Brindisi & Taranto Provinces. Note that aqua socks are a must when traversing most of the seasides of this region.
I am not including the actual city of Lecce in this post, because it’s inland; However, it is one of my favorite towns in all of Italy. I will be including Lecce, the city, in my upcoming curated Puglian Itinerary. Stay tuned.
The Lecce province of Salento has a breathtaking coastline with hundreds of stretches of jewel-like water and sand, rocky grottos and caves, and most of them have amenities. But, all of this beauty comes with a price: hoards of people and nearly impossible parking. Salento is packed during summer (mostly northern Italians - a good sign), especially in Melendugno on the Adriatic coast, home to postcard beaches, like Torre dell’Orso, one of the most popular.
The beauty here at Torre dell’Orso is ridiculous (and the water is incredible)… but you will be packed like sardines on the beach in high summer.
After dealing with the limited parking situation, to be able to secure sun beds and an umbrella (shade!) on the beach at Torre dell’Orso and getting that first cold beer will be the gold medal you didn’t know you needed to win.
We were sat in a less populated area of this long stretch of sand, but clearly there was still a subtle element of chaos, as you can see crowds in the distance in both directions. It’s a little bit party, a little bit family - a mix of all ages, but the number of people requires commitment and patience. I would love to catch this beach in the shoulder seasons when the crowds are few. That is my recommendation.
Going North of Torre Dell’Orso, is Roca Vecchia - an area of grottos, cliffs, caves and archeological ruins that date back 2500 years, so history and nature lovers are in for a treat in this adventuresome section of the coast.
Roca Vecchia has my favorite grotto: Grotta della Poesia, “Poetry Cave”, a little slice of grotto heaven with the most perfect water I have ever swam in - a brilliant turquoisey-emerald and super salty. It’s a must do.
You can jump in, or descend the rocky “steps”. Grottos are great for people who are averse to sand. I say this because I know a few people like this (you know who you are). Poetry Cave and the Puglian grottos are for you.
Are they beaches? No... but, I believe their exceptional qualities are worthy of inclusion here. And, they do connect to the sea, where one can swim in the grotto through the cave out to the Adriatic.
Roca Vecchia was busy, but it’s quite expansive and offers a diverse coast for exploring. So, the people ratio was totally fine. Many nooks for swimming, sunbathing, climbing, jumping, and/or getting an archeological lesson (there are signs with information) - A free-style playground. Note that it can be windy here, but many grottos are shielded from the wind.
We left our belongings on the rocks and immersed ourselves into another pristine grotto, this time a shallow sandy pool.
We did have a suspicious incident - a couple was eyeing our bags and standing over our stuff, even touching and peeking into our bags, which got us out of the water pretty quickly. Didn’t love that. Grottos are fun in small doses, but not comfortable for long periods of time. Parking is fairly close and inexpensive across the street. My recommendation is definitely make a pitstop, take a dip and explore this rugged yet sparkling beauty. It’s fun! Leave your important belongings in the trunk of the car.
p.s. two honorable mentions in this area that are on my list for next time:
South of Torre dell’Orso is a gem Faraglioni di Sant’ Andrea, a coast of limestone stacks and arches to swim amongst. (photo from google).
Available parking near Faraglioni di Sant’ Andrea was a treasure hunt, and so when we found this one car park by Spiaggia di Sant’ Andrea (the beach just south of Faraglioni di Sant’ Andrea), we thought we were in luck. We had in mind to check out the beach and then head to Faraglioni, but, we were meant with disappointment. Spiaggia di Sant’Andrea beach wasn’t great. The beach was entirely wood chips or mulch, and there were no beds… and, it’s not accessible to Faraglioni di Sant’ Andrea. We high-tailed it out of there. Next time!
Otranto - even a bit further south, offers more intimacy in its stunning coastline. (photo from Google). It’s a beautiful town with a walled fortress and castle, as well as a little harbor. Parking there is nuts also, but better than Torre dell’Orso. We were there for dinner once and breakfast another time. We had an incredible pasta with licorice and the best Pasticciotto Leccese (the signature pastry of Puglia) in Otranto, which I will be including in my complete Puglian Itinerary soon.
All of the aforementioned beaches are Blue Flag Beaches, with the exception of Spiaggia di Sant’ Andrea.
Next up, I head further north on my beach quest to the Brindisi & Bari Provinces of Puglia… The best is yet to come.
Photos: c/o Tiffinee Amber, unless otherwise noted, ie the last two photos & all maps are from google.
Castner, Bridget. Blue Flag Beaches: Meaning & Importance. https://www.greatvaluevacations.com/travel-inspiration/blue-flag-beaches-meaning-and-importance